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Code of Practice

Code of Practice for Craft-Design Collaborations

The ethical turn, turn, turn

‘The rich swell up with pride, the poor from hunger.’
Sholom Aleichem

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As we saw a ‘linguistic turn’ transform humanities in the late 20th century, on our side of the millennium it seems that we are witnessing a wave of cultural accountability – an ‘ethical turn’.

Culture is no longer ‘innocent’ of politics. An artist cannot draw inspiration from the third world without accounting for his or her economic privileges. Similarly in disciplines such as anthropology and archaeology it is an expectation that the researcher works in partnership with the community – the knowledge which they glean must be paid for, usually in services.

This ethical turn may seem rather negative. Guilt can lead towards greater distance between cultures, as those from rich countries are hesitant to be seen as cultural predators. But there are positive developments too.

The existence of a just partnership between rich and poor is a valuable ideal, and increasingly we seem willing to pay for it. Fair Trade sales in commodities such as chocolate and coffee have risen greatly, up to 50% a year. Given the modest nature of these purchases, it is unlikely that they will be affected by the economic downturn.

Previously, it was the ‘customer is always right’. But now the interests of the producer have become relevant. There is a multitude of products that advertise their benefits to the community of origin, including bottled water, textiles, furniture, cosmetics and medicines.

As this trend continues the build, it naturally becomes commodified. We cringe to learn that McDonalds is now a member of the Rainbow Alliance. What guarantee do we have that such associations are more than marketing gimmicks, there to enhance the primary brand? As Nestlé, Coca-Cola and other global brands jump on the ethical bandwagon, we are tempted to become cynical about the whole ethical turn. How can we tell the difference between substance and advertising?

At this point, it seems important that those designing these products find a way of sustaining the trust of the consumer. The challenge is to provide the consumer with convincing information about the arrangement with the producing community. It’s hard to convey this information just as dry facts, there needs to be a compelling narrative about the challenges faced by the community and their current aspirations.

This is partly a design challenge. How do you develop products that ‘feel good’? How might the consumer feel that his or her purchase not only promises themselves goodness, but in a small way makes the world a better place? This product might be the exception. This product may not be not drawing on an unsustainable resource, subjecting displaced peoples to sweatshop conditions, exporting industrial pollution from first to third worlds, etc.

So we need to find a way of designing ethical value that will last. It’s not good enough to make ethics fashionable. Today’s trend is tomorrow’s dumpster. And it’s not enough to be dewy-eyed. Today’s romantic myth is tomorrows hardened realism.

The project of a Code of Practice for Craft-Design Collaborations is designed to strengthen this ethical turn in product development. The initial phase is to open this question up for discussion in a way where no view is excluded, from the most idealistic to the most cynical. It is this openness that will serve to help develop an enduring understanding of the nature of an object’s ethical value.

This year, there are already two workshops planned to start this discussion. The first will be at Selling Yarns next month. The second will be in Santiago, Chile, in September.

Tradition For Modern Times: Selling Yarns workshop

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Here’s an outline for the workshop that’s being offered for the Selling Yarns conference. This will be the first in a series of workshops taking place across the South this year. They will lay the ground for the development of the Code of Practice for Craft-Design Collaborations that aims to bolster the ethical value of the handmade.

Seminar 1: Ethical consumerism – Tradition for Modern Times

How to sustain trust in products developed from craft communities
Cost of seminar: $50.00
Monday 9 March, 9:00 am – 1:00 pm

This seminar explores the ethics of craft development and how this can add value to the final product.

Ethical consumerism considers not only the product itself but also the positive impact which purchasing this product has in the world. So, even a global brand like Starbucks tries to demonstrate its fair dealings with third world producers. Ethical consumerism is becoming increasing popular in design, with great interest in stories about how the product was made. The negative impact of sweatshop stories on Nike’s brand has shown how important it is for consumers to know that they are part of a positive process.

Many designers are now working with craft communities, particularly in remote regions where traditional manual skills have not yet been eroded by globalisation. While noble in intention, these collaborations are vulnerable. Designers often have little training and experience in working with traditional communities. Being tied to the fashion cycle can mean that the designer’s involvement in the community is short-term, leaving high expectations and great disappointments in their wake. A few bad stories about craft sweatshops can turn consumers cynical about products that have a ‘handmade by traditional community’ story.

So how can designers develop relationships with craft persons who are likely to live up to consumer expectations and have a sustainable benefit to the community?

This seminar develops principles for the collaboration between designer and craftsperson. While identifying ethical ideals of this collaboration, it is also mindful of the pragmatic issues and the need for all parties to make a livelihood from their work.

The workshop program will include:

  1. Presentation of craft-design case studies from a range of regions and models
  2. Discuss the UNESCO model for Designers Meet Artisans
  3. Present hypothetical scenarios involving role play to explore the different interests at play in product development
  4. Identifying core principles towards a Code of Practice for Designers and Artisans

Intended audience:

  • Designers, including product developers
  • Crafts-persons, interested in working with communities
  • Anthropologists, committed to partnership with their community
  • Retailers, promoting world craft to local market

You can register for the workshop and conference here.

Hypothetical #1 – Secret designs

What do you think about ‘world craft’? Here’s an opportunity to test your views.

Presented in partnership with the Craft Revival Trust and Craft Australia.

Introduction

The world is becoming ever more inter-connected. Globalisation has led to chains of production that are spread across the world, from textile factories to call centres. And now with campaigns such as ‘We’re in this together’, the issue of climate change has sharpened our awareness that the future our planet is a shared responsibility. The climate change talks in Bali late last year reinforced the need for first and third world to work together. It’s a good opportunity to think about the nature of this cooperation.

A key to recent climate change negotiations has been the recognition of the need for economic development in third world countries. In the crafts, there is already considerable collaboration between first world designers and third world artisans. Such collaboration promises to build trust between the two halves of the world, as well as encourage the development of environmentally-friendly industries .

But trust is a fragile thing. Miscommunication and inappropriate assumptions can lead to suspicion and anger. Greater understanding is required of the interests, hopes and consequences that might be entailed in such collaborations. To develop an understanding of these complexities, a number of hypotheticals will be presented dealing with different kinds of relationships between designers and artisans. Responses are sought from those in the field about the issues evoked. These will form the groundwork for a more extensive study of this activity and the future potential development of a Code of Practice.

Can you sell culture to save culture?

The Ganapi people live in a village in the remote highlands of Gananda, a small tropical nation increasingly dependent on income from its copper mines. Ganapi culture is under great pressure. The male villagers are increasingly drawn to jobs with the mines in a distant province. Local craft traditions are threatened by the influx of cheap commodities. And overall, the Ganapi suffer from a decline in confidence and social cohesion.

A key element of Ganapi culture is the initiation of young men into adulthood. This involves an elaborate and highly secret ritual, during which the men are scarred and adorned with an ornately woven string bag, known as the xanak. This bag is produced during the ceremonies and its design is said to prophesise the future of its owner.

Herbert Downer is an anthropologist who has taken great interest in the Ganapi. He feels it is important to contribute something back to the culture that has helped establish his academic career. An old school friend has established a very successful technology company that markets products to the exclusive global elite. InfoGlobal have developed a device which combines Skype, GPS, MP3 player, language translation, email and news feeds. At the high price of US$1,200, it is designed for a limited market. Research has revealed that their target market is motivated to consume products that have a clear narrative of social responsibility. Elite consumers like to drink fair trade coffee and purchase hand-made goods. But at the same time, they are not averse to cutting edge technology.

Downer proposed that InfoGlobal commission the Ganapi people to design a cover for this new device using a traditional design. The cover would be mass-produced in the China, where the device is manufactured. The final product would be called a Xanak and be sold with a narrative about the cover, explaining the special meaning of the design as a guarantee of the wearer’s safety and success. InfoGlobal are thrilled with the idea and keen for their product designer to visit Ganada to secure the design.

Downer now visits his trusted confidante, Moses Fenami, and presents him with the idea. ‘I have a solution to the troubles now afflicting the village. A friend of mine is keen to buy one of the Xanak designs that are part of the cultural treasures of the Ganapi people. This design will be worn by very important people who travel widely around the world. The Ganapi story will be spread far and wide. Not only that, but the village will also receive a generous fee of $250,000 which will be donated for community projects, including a tourist centre to increase trade and draw people back to the village. I think it’s a golden opportunity to save Ganapi culture. What do you think?’

Moses replies, ‘Dear brother professor Downer. It is very kind that you have sought ways of helping the Ganapi. You are a true brother of the Ganapi. We certainly do need help. Our people have gone crazy with all these new things. Our men go to the copper mines and spend their money on drink and gambling. No one seems to care for the old ways any more. I fear greatly that our children will not know about their ancestors.

‘Perhaps this the way forward. Rather than just keeping our sacred stories and beautiful objects to ourselves, we learn to share them with other people. Other people can then help us re-build our culture.

‘But your solution is worrying too. These designs that you talk about are sacred to us. They are not produced lightly. Usually when everyone knows something in our culture, it is no longer important. We have strict rules. No man can wear another’s xanak. This might break one of the last ties that keep us together. So I’m not sure if the medicine would be worse than the disease. Please give me some time to consult with the other elders before I give you an answer.’

What do you think?

So, if you were a Ganapi elder, how would you advise Moses to answer Professor Downer:

  • YES, to seek resources and interest of the modern world to help strengthen Ganapi culture
  • NO, to preserve the sacred bed-rock of Ganapi values

Please register your opinion in the poll on this site. If there is more you’d like to add, such as an alternative solution, please leave a comment here.